Soldering a capacitor

[frokka]

One of my Pulsar cards has had a capacitor come off, the card stopped working,
and I'm thinking this should be my first venture into soldering.
I got most of the tools ready, but I could need some tips and direction.

I need to know if I can use the same capacitator or have to get a new one.
What webshop should I order these from? (6V , 47 uF)
I actually couldn't find them here in Norway, allthough the main retailer has a wide selection.

Should I remove all soldering first or use it as a base for further soldering?

What solder type should I use?

Any help is greatly appreciated

/frokka

[jhulk]

first thing is orientation if you get the electrolytic the wrong way around it will explode the black line denotes the negative connection

remove old solder by using some solder Brade and soldering iron if its a lead tin based solder then 250-300 temp will be fine

if its lead free then a temp of 350-450 will be required as lead free has a higher boiling point

when soldering surface mount place a small amount of solder on each pad then then heat the leg of the cap on one pad so that it sticks to the solder

this will hold the cap in place then heat up second leg and flow a small amount of solder then repeat to first leg

but very unusual that an item stops working with a pci card as they are just bypass caps

i would check the power regulator to see if your getting output voltage when pluged into the pci slot

[frokka]

Thank you jhulk

The card is working in the sense that it can launch the Scope platform and generate audio.
However, it will create those communication error popups whenever I load more stuff into the DSPs.
It will also crash on occasion.
With my other 3-card setup I can load all the way to the last bar without any popups and it's stable.

As I'm trying to find a replacement capacitator I've noticed there are almost no 6V in production, but there are plenty of 6,3V. I'm guessing those will work..?

Also, I'm not sure if they are 47 uF or pF, I've read that two digits means pF.
I can't find any caps with 47 pF that have 6V or 6,3V though.

https://www.elfaelektronikk.no/elfa3~no ... &toc=19044

/frokka

[jhulk]

voltage you can go higher never lower a 6.3v will be fine and most are 6.3 at that voltage

[jhulk]

there uf as they are electrolytic s not many pf aluminum caps

pico farad caps are usually ceramic caps for filtering

so a 6.3 47uf which is mf as its micro farad is fine but the m is a squiggle m so they put it a uf as its easier to write i would think mf is better but hay

on old schematics it says mf

[frokka]

A follow up on this old thread; I was able to solder the capacitor onto the P2 board and it worked!
As my very first solder job it was a messy one, I had to re-heat the solder many times and ended up with a blob on each side, actually lifting the cap up a bit so there is a gap inbetween. However, it's now connected and I'm using the card again in my 3xPCI setup.
So I guess that proves that the card needs the caps to function normally.